China by bus: Experiencing the highs and lows of group travel

JINAN, China -- Coal smog flattened the afternoon sun into a pale disk that hung anemically in the sky outside the bus window.

The tour group had left Beijing after a glutinous lunch of pork and chicken stir-fries, and now we were rolling into the outskirts of Jinan, three hours to the south. Gray and soot-stained, Jinan did not look promising.

"China Focus, China Focus! Now we come into Jinan," our guide said into her microphone. China Focus was the name of the tour company, but it was also how Lisa Li called the group to attention. "Ji means 'the river,' nan means 'south of.' Ji-nan. South of river. It is famous for motorcycles factory and also washing machines."